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Cheap PCB Board Fabrication
Cheap PCB Board Fabrication
Cheap PCB Board Fabrication
Cheap PCB Board Fabrication
Spark Fun Electronics :: View topic - Any other cheap PCB
services ...Man, I almost started crying when I saw that
the PCB service is frozen for the next 3 weeks or so. And
I was just finished a board that might actually work! ...
forum.sparkfun.com/viewtopic.php?t=1693& - 57k - Cached
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PCBManufacturing - Embedded System Design and Construction[http://www.myropcb.com
Myro PCB] is an off-shore (Chinese) manufacturer with 6mil/6mil
design rules, 14mil holes and pretty cheap prices. ...
www.eod.gvsu.edu/egr326/PCBManufacturing - 31k - Cached
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AnswerGuru Musings: Cheap PCB PrototypesReally cheap PCB
prototypes. 50 cents / sq. inch + $25 per lot. Nice. I think
I'll try them out next time I need one etched. ...
www.answergurus.com/blog/archives/000216.html - 8k - Cached
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Cheap and good PCB etching solution..... - Electronic Circuits
...The etching solution is made by adding 1 part Muriatic
Acid (the common kind that's sold in hardware stores, about
.00 gal.) to 2 parts Hydrogen.
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Easy PC BoardsThese Avery labels are very cheap. I get
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place. The "special" PCB papers go for about $24
for 10 ...
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Printed Circuit Board Manufacturing | PCB Prototype Design
...Electronic Interconnect (EI) is a professional printed
circuit board manufacturer in the USA. Electronic Interconnect
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PCB's on the cheapDecent PCB's on the cheap. Version .2f
(original 2003) Dal Wheeler Questions / Comments Email Me!
New! Pictures of my business trip to China (6/2006) ...
myweb.cableone.net/wheedal/pcb.htm - 19k - Cached - Similar
pages
Cheap PCB Board FabricationCheap PCB Board Fabrication.
Todd Boyle tboyle at rosehill.net Tue Nov 9 15:21:23 PST
2004. Previous message: Cheap PCB Board Fabrication ...
www.seattlewireless.net/pipermail/talk/2004-November/016504.html
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Cheap and Easy Toner Transfer for PCB Making - Instructables
- DIY ...There are lots of people mentioned about using
Inkjet Glossy Paper to do Toner Transfer. It can be done.
But it is not easy to remove it after ironing...
www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Easy-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/
- 94k - Man, I almost started crying when I saw that the
PCB service is frozen for the next 3 weeks or so. And I
was just finished a board that might actually work! It's
only .5 square inches, and the couple of places I checked
are not priced well for tiny boards.
Any suggestions? I only need two or three, so I'm guessing
that I'll just need to wait. I'd be willing to pay more
than the 2.50 I was planning on, but $20 each is way more
than I want to pay.
New: I actually wrote a book about making PC boards. The
book includes a copy of Eagle and covers using Eagle to
create boards. Chapters cover this method in more detail,
plus the traditional photo method. In addition, there is
a chapter about how to prepare board artwork for production
by a PC board house. It's less then $20 at Amazon, check
it out (look over to the right side of this page)!
You'll learn how to use Eagle schematic capture and layout.
Find out how to make custom libraries and powerful scripts.
The book also covers the CAM processor and how to get the
most out of the autorouter (and when to manually route traces,
too). There are several complete projects included for you
to try yourself.
I've been doing hardware as a business or a hobby for almost
30 years. For a long time, I never made PC boards myself.
I would just wire everything by hand. Very messy and time
consuming.
Of course, making PC boards is a lot of work, right? Well,
it is, but there is a way to cut down on a great deal of
the work if you own a laser printer. Sure, everyone has
heard of these magic sheets of paper that allow you iron
a PCB layout onto a piece of copper clad board. But that
stuff is expensive! Very expensive. If you want to make
boards in any quantity, you are going to have to find a
cheaper way.
In a recent newsgroup post, ovidio1@idt.net said that he
had used label backings successfully for iron transfer of
designs. His method works so well for me, that I thought
I'd share it here. What you need is some PCB design software
(see http://www.us-epanorama.net/software.html#pcbcad),
a laser printer (300 DPI is fine), some Avery "Remove
'em" labels (any size is fine; I like the diskette
labels Avery #6490), a copper clad board, some #400 sand
paper, alcohol, and an etching chemical like ferric chloride.
These Avery labels are very cheap. I get a box of 25 sheets
for about $18 at the local office supply place. The "special"
PCB papers go for about $24 for 10 sheets! Plus, you can't
just jump in the car and buy it on a moments notice in most
areas. On the software, I like Eagle (http://www.cadsoftusa.com).
1. Print your design to the printer on ordinary paper as
a mirror image. (If you are using a regular drawing program
Flip Horizontal ought to do it.) Make sure it looks OK.
2. Remove all the labels from the backing sheet. Put them
aside -- we will use the 8.5 x 11" backing sheet. Cut
a piece of the backing sheet large enough to fit the layout.
Don't touch the shiny part of the paper as oil from your
fingers will interfere with the process.
3. Place the backing shiny side up over the pattern you
printed on regular paper. Use some pieces of the labels
you set aside to stick the backing down on the end that
you will feed into the printer. Don't tape the sides, and
don't tape the trailing edge. Whatever you do, don't use
ordinary tape which might gum up your printer.
4. Put the paper back in the laser so that the backing's
shiny side will get the print. Print the design again (remember:
mirror image)
5. Heat your clothes iron for Wool. Make sure the iron
isn't going to dribble water or spit out steam.
6. Use some #400 sandpaper (Scotch-Brite if it is filthy)
to clean the board, and then rinse with alcohol. If the
board is really dirty, use Comet or some other abrasive
cleaner. Don't use steel wool. Don't touch the board after
it is clean. Fingerprints don't make good PCB lands. Dry
the board with a paper towel. UPDATE: There is a gent in
Canada who reports good results with waxless automobile
rubbing compound. I'm planning on trying this. His web page,
however, is gone.
7. Put a blank sheet of paper over the PCB. Heat it for
3 minutes or so. Remove the paper. Then flip the backing
over so that the image contacts the dry (hot) PCB material.
Cover with a sheet of paper. Iron the design to the board.
Make sure the iron contacts all of the image and the heat
is even by moving the iron around. It seems 30 seconds is
the magic number. Too much time will fill in your holes
(but that's OK).
8. After you remove the iron, wait 2 minutes. Carefully
(and slowly) peel back the backing (careful it is hot!).
If it didn't work right, don't worry. Clean the board with
acetone and start over.
9. Etch the board with ferric chloride or whatever you
use. Many people prefer ammonium persulfate.
10. Before you remove the toner resist, drill holes in
the board. I use a 1/32" drill bit from a Dremel Moto-Tool
set in a regular drill. A 1/16" bit is too large for
most things (especially ICs). The little holes in the copper
will help you drill and the toner helps you see them.
11. After you drill your holes, use acetone to remove the
toner.
12. If you want to coat the board, you might use TinnIT
(requires hot temperatures and an ammonia rinse). I just
build the board and then coat it with Silicon Lacquer (go
to a GC distributor for this lacquer). They tell me that
the copper will eventually turn green if you don't do something.
NOTE: My boards have a large (1/4") ground trace all
around the edge of the board. This trace consistently doesn't
come out right. However, it is a simple matter to use tape
around the edges. This could be a problem if you have large
traces in the interior of the board. The large traces "clump
up" and I'm not sure what to do about it.
About Drilling
Some folks have said the resist crumbles when you drill
it and they have trouble lining up the holes. If you find
this to be a problem, try drilling through a piece of perf
board. You can clamp it with some small C clamps or large
paper clamps.
Disclaimer
You assume full responsibility for any damage this causes
to your laser printer. The newsgroup poster used an Epson
Action Laser and I use an HP Laser Jet IIIP. There is no
way to know if this will work on your printer even if it
is one of those types. Do not attempt to run backing paper
through the printer by itself. It may jam in the fuser and
melt. Do not use regular tape to attach the backing paper
to the regular paper.
Good Luck! E-mail me and let me know how this works for
you.
Related Links
Another method using transparencies. I'd tried this and
it didn't work well for me. It would be great for doing
double-sided boards, however. However, with a newer LaserJet
4000, the transparencies work pretty well. You wind up getting
voids in large areas that you can touch up with a resist
pen.
Bill Boucher's page on PC Board Construction
Dan Feeback's article on using the "real" paper
If you want to make your own full-blown PCB lab, try here
Update
The new instructions worked fine for the 1oz board.
Sources for PCB Stufff
Circuit Specialists has a cheap etching tank It works pretty
well but it took 3 tries to get the heater to arrive in
one piece. This is just a Tupperware box with an aquarium
pump and heater -- but you do get a nice sparger that would
be something you'd have to custom fabricate. The sparger
distributes the air over the boards, holds the boards, and
gives you a handle to pull the boards out of the bath.
Electronics Goldmine is a good place to buy small drill
bits cheap. They advertise cheap prices on copper board,
but they never actually have it in stock, apparently.AnswerGuru
Musings
This repository reflects some of my interests and it will
undoubtedly contain many random thoughts and tangents. All
opinions contained within are subject to change for no apparent
reason. Read at your own risk.
-- a.n.s.w.e.r.g.u.r.u. --
? Mathmos: Modern Lighting Toys | Main | Video: See a Real
Shockwave ?
January 23, 2004
Cheap PCB Prototypes
BareBones PCBs
Really cheap PCB prototypes. 50 cents / sq. inch + $25
per lot. Nice. I think I'll try them out next time I need
one etched...
Posted by answerguru at January 23, 2004 12:35 PM | TrackBack
Comments
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The etching solution is made by adding 1 part Muriatic
Acid (the common kind that's sold in hardware stores, about
$5.00 gal.) to 2 parts Hydrogen Peroxide (the common 3%
kind that's sold in dollar stores & drugstores for $0.50
a pint)
Warning!!!!!!!!
Mixing is a hazardous process (add acid to the peroxide,
not the other way around!)
The board pictured below was etched in five minutes at
room temp.Decent PCB's on the cheap.
Version .2f (original 2003)
Dal Wheeler
Questions / Comments Email Me!
New! Pictures of my business trip to China (6/2006)
http://myweb.cableone.net/wheedal/album/
I've experimented with many home fabricated PCB methods.
Some were successful, others not quite so much. You can
spend as much as you want tooling/buying consumables to
produce good PCB's by yourself. I tend to be a bit mean
when it comes to my hobbies; at least I try to be initially
(almost never ends up that way.. :') ). What follows are
a few comments describing my current favorite PCB fabrication
method; at least until someone comes up with something that
works better for me; direct inkjet etch resist printing
anyone?
Toner transfer has been around for a while. There are several
products/specialty papers to help to move the toner image
from a paper backing to copper clad. I've had some success
with the press N peel product, but the paper was expensive
and not locally available. Someone somewhere suggested that
glossy inkjet photopaper works well. I was able to get the
image transfered OK, but I never was able to deal with the
gelatin always seemed to come with it. After a bit of trial
and error with the other stuff, I heard of someone using
paper cut out of magazines as a transfer medium. It was
cheap and I could keep trying until I got the results I
wanted. It turns out to work really well.
1. Layout of the circuit board.
Basically use anything that you are comfortable with. Many
hobbiests use Cadsofts' Eagle layout tool. I use the old
Microsim PCboards/Specctra package --but that's no longer
available. Anyway, the important thing is that it exports
gerber files after you are done (some freeware packages
don't do this). Lay out your board and export your component
and solder layers to gerber files. Make sure the board boundary
is also attached to the layers; it helps to keep the paper
in place while the board is going through the laminator
and also provides a line to cut down the board later.
2. Mirror the top layer. Print.
Use a gerber file viewer utility to load your newly created
images. Pentalogix offers a free version of Viewmate that
works really well for this. I open the top layer gerber
file, select all and click the mirror button on the right
side of the screen. If doing a two layer board put on a
few cross hairs to the side of the layout to help align
the two sides (same place on both layers).
Printing from within this program as opposed to the layout
software also has the nice side-effect of not having the
holes included on the copper pads, giving you a little more
copper / fudge room when you drill out the board later.
Print on a good 600dpi laser printer at 1:1 scale. I use
an old HP Laserjet 5L.
On double-sided boards, print the bottom layer, cut out
the image leaving 1-2" on one side to allow you to
bind the top and bottom together. With a bright lightsource,
align the two sides (toner side in o'course) using the crosshairs
you drew off the side of the circuit board earlier. Check
the vias and make sure the alignment seems to be OK for
the whole board. I use a gluestick to bind the two sides
together on the one side. This will create an envelope that
you will sandwich the copper clad in when puting in the
laminator later. (Now is a good time to start the laminator
warming up.)
* Some have written me asking about the magazine stock
that I have been using. No there isn't anything special
about it. I generally look for magazine pages that have
a little color background on them and a semi-gloss finish.
I avoid using paper with a lot of recycled content. You
can generally tell the difference by rubbing your thumb
against the paper under water. If a lot of paper pulp comes
off it quickly it probably has too much recycled material.
Another thing I've noticed is that the higher quality pages
tend to have a smoother finish and don't embed as much toner
in the paper; these release easier later and more toner
adhears to the copper clad. Cadence PCB Design Studio 15.1
(3 cds)
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Companies looking for an all-inclusive design solution that’s
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Toner Transfer for PCB Making
There are lots of people mentioned about using Inkjet Glossy
Paper to do Toner Transfer. It can be done. But it is not
easy to remove it after ironing. You have soak the PCB in
hot water for more than ten minutes. It is quite time consuming.
If you cannot remove the coating completely. It cannot be
etched.
I have tried to use Konica Minolta Photo Quailty Matte
Paper. Then design your own circuit and print it on the
Matte Paper. Remember, before printing it. You need to mirror
board. Otherwise, the circuit will be inversed.Cheap and
good PCB etching solution..... - Page 2 - Electronic ...simple
but yet effective! you just saved my ass man. my medical
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said how the hell did i etch.
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